To arrive in London in a Saturday twilight late in 1944,
after having been away since before the war began, was to
experience a sinking of the heart for which even the
destruction in the suburbs, visible from the windows of the
train, had not prepared me. The suburban wash, hung amply
across the gaps made by the bombs in the rows of workers'
houses, stirred a quick, sympathetic awareness of human
adaptability, and so did the window curtains and flower pots
in the truncated dwellings that remained—the persistent,
vivid, still-life ameliorations. But these things I somewhat
expected, though even here there was a shocking discrepancy
between what one has written off as history and what was
actually still contemporary. I accepted the neat erasures in
the long rows of houses, and even the vestiges of normality
in the partially demolished ones. And I wondered about the
displaced inhabitants of the houses that were gone. Where,
on that darkening afternoon, were they warming their feet
and how were they going to kill the unpromising evening?
London was something else again. Nothing in the outworks had
quite suggested the lowered atmosphere in the citadel
itself. It was not merely the almost deserted railway
station. I had arrived late in the day, and the British
government official who met me remarked casually that the
first V-2s had fallen earlier. They had made deep craters,
my host said, but had been far less destructive than had
been anticipated. There were no instructions about how to
behave if you were out walking when the V-2s came, he said,
because there were no alerts. You just strolled along,
daydreaming, till you were hit. The instructions about what
to do when you heard the sirens for the V-1s were very
simple: fall flat on your face. My host, who was going to
give me a lift to Claridge's, where I was to stay, asked me
if I'd mind detouring to the Savoy to drop two other
visitors who had arrived on the same train. In the curved
areaway of the Savoy, off the Strand, I got out for a few
minutes while the others went in to register and I walked
into the Strand. It was very still. For reassurance, I
sought the entrance to the Savoy Grill. Sandbags were piled
up against it. I peeped inside. There were a few people
sitting around having tea. If, in the old days, there was a
vivacious room in Europe, it was the Savoy Grill. It was the
nerve center of bohemian and artistic London. I remembered
an evening there: Paderewski, Yvonne Printemps, Sacha Guitry;
Chaliapin blowing kisses at large. (On the plane coming
over, I had heard an anecdote about Guitry. When, recently,
he arrived in a French prison for collaborationists, he was
told, to cheer him up, that his first wife was there. The
effect was the opposite. Guitry threw up his hands.
"Everything I can endure," he groaned, "but this!") That
evening was millennially far away. What had made me feel
that the Savoy Grill would keep up its tempo forever I did
not know, but I must have felt that, because I was so struck
by the change. My Englishman came back and we resumed our
drive to Claridge's. He asked about America. He had been an
Oxford debater and had travelled through forty-seven of our
states. He was wistful about that forty- eighth state, one
of the Dakotas. He wanted me to tell him about it. As I had
never been in it either, I couldn't help him much. With a
careful detachment, he asked about "the election." In the
ensuing eight weeks of my stay, I was to observe that no
matter where a conversation started, it always ended up with
speculation about the forthcoming election. I may add that I
never heard a word against Dewey from any Englishman. That
all came from the Americans.
Down the Strand, past the Admiralty Arch, and across
Piccadilly Circus, with its boxed-up Eros, I kept my
eyes—while I consoled my companion for having missed North
or South Dakota—at the windows, watching the familiar
streets and the people on the sidewalks. The streets, with
distressing elisions, were still there, but they were
subdued and very shabby, and so were the pedestrians. There
was an air about the buildings and the people of being on
the defensive. London, it was apparent at once, had endured
unbelievably and was still enduring unbelievably. Thirty-six
hours before, I had left an America simmering with the
exhilaration of a boom; England was tense in the paroxysm of
a death struggle. When I left New York, the end of the war
was imminent—"in the bag," as people said—but here it was
being fought out.
An English editor I met on the plane had told me that the
day after I arrived would provide one of the biggest news
stories of the war: London, for the first time in five
years, was to have light. That night, however, the blackout
was still to be on, and I deposited my fifty-five pounds of
luggage in Claridge's and went for a walk while there was
still some daylight. I made for Berkeley Square. Soldiers
and sailors, English and American, were walking with their
girls in a faint, intermittent drizzle. Most of the women
wore no stockings. I had been seeing this all summer in New
York. But the American legs were tanned and agreeable,
whereas these English ones were muddy and streaked bluish
and red with the cold. (A young woman later told me that she
was embarrassed at having to go without stockings. "I hate
the unusual," she said. As she had been going barelegged for
five years, I wondered how long it took for the unusual to
become the usual.) The façades of the houses leading into
the square have a strangely quiet look; at a casual glance,
you might think the houses were shut up for the weekend, but
a closer inspection shows you that they have been shut up
for longer than that. I peered in through a grimy, narrow,
leaded window at the side of a fine oaken street door.
Behind it was a great, obscene shambles of shattered brick
and mortar and twisted iron. A huge sheet of what had been a
fluted ceiling lay against a section of stairway, as if
propped up on one elbow. I looked down the row. Several
places in the long vista of wreckage had been cleared for
the pools—for emergency use against incendiaries—which are
now a common feature of the London scene. These dark, liquid
oblongs, fine-meshed in the rain, reflected jagged back
walls and gargoyles of contorted pipes. I remembered going
out to the set in Hollywood where Leslie Howard was making
the motion picture of "Berkeley Square." Those reproductions
of eighteenth-century façades had not much less behind them
than this one had.
I looked up. On the third story of a house on the corner,
following accurately the
theatrical convention of the missing fourth wall, was an
exquisite, suspended drawing room: delicately tinted blue
walls, molded cornices, the curved, rifted ceiling, with a
beautifully shaped oval where the center chandelier had
been. All but the framework of the rest of the house was
gone, but there it hung, this upstairs drawing room, elegant
and aloof. I thought of Henry James. Here was his Mayfair,
crisply anatomized. What would he have done with that room?
With what malevolent ghosts would he have peopled it? What
seedlings of social casuistry would have sprouted beneath
that non-existent chandelier, simmered along those pastel
walls? An acute English critic speaks of James as the
harbinger of decay and says that he described the final
throes of a society he knew was done with. But James did
not, I am sure, anticipate quite this finale. He must have
visualized a long, slow inanition—the inhabitants of these
drawing rooms giving up eventually because of their
inability to sustain their own attitudes, to save face
before their own pretensions. Certainly he could not have
anticipated such rude visitations as there have been,
cutting short the tortuous inhibitions, freezing the slow
molds of refinement. Inescapably the Cassandra wails of our
prophets, who are fond of reminding us that our
civilization, like earlier ones, may disappear, somehow
became very plausible. Ordinarily, when we become aware of
moral rifts, we believe we can surmount them. Here
disintegration was a physical actuality.
Later, I was to have this same feeling in drawing rooms
still intact. I visited an august Englishman who has had a
career of the highest distinction in English public life. He
took me upstairs to show me his books—some of which he had
written—and then into his shrouded drawing room. The long
salon was musty and denuded. He lifted a linen hood from the
head of a lovely statuette of a young girl. The girl smiled
ravishingly, as if in sudden relief at her unveiling. He had
bought her in Spain years ago. "We cannot, of course," he
said, "keep these rooms open any longer." He walked about,
uncovering other precious objects, "England," he said in the
standard summary, "will never be the same again." He then
made a rueful acknowledgment that there would be another
England, but he felt that his had vanished. Fashionable
London, upper-class London, is a vast, urban Cherry Orchard.
While I was still staring up at the Jamesian drawing room, I
was gradually swallowed up by darkness. Before I knew it,
the suspended drawing room had disappeared, together with
the framework which suspended it. Suddenly there were no
buildings, no streets, no squares. There was darkness. I
started back to the hotel in something of a panic, knowing
that a sense of direction was not my strong point. A few
taxis went by and I hailed them, because I had not yet
learned that it was no use whatever to hail a taxi in a
London street. I was told afterward that in a poll taken to
discover what people considered the greatest hardship of the
war, the blackout won hands clown. I didn't wonder. This
blackout was inhuman; it was too literal, it couldn't take a
joke. We had had a blackout in New York that gave you a
break. I remembered it, on that perilous walk back to
Claridge's, as a flaming incandescence, a pillar of fire by
night, a civic bonfire. Cars passed by—little points of blue
light dragging darkness after them but leaving blackness
behind. I made it finally, but I had aged. When I did get to
Claridge's, I didn't know it for a minute—not till the
doorman flashed his torch to light a guest across the
sidewalk. When I got through the swinging door into the
lighted lobby, I gasped with relief.
The next night was no better, or any night thereafter. The
promised illumination did not come. The government didn't go
through with the moderation of the blackout, nor did it make
an explanation. About this there was much grumbling. Why,
since the bombs that were coming over were pilotless, was
the blackout necessary at all? The common explanation, that
it was necessary to save fuel, did not silence the grousing,
which went on all the time I was in London, as did the
blackout—profound, terrifying, impenetrable. The girl at
Paddington police station who made out my ration card told
me that she hadn't been out in the evening in five years.
She would rather stay in than face the blackout. I must say,
however, that one night several weeks later the blackout
yielded some compensation: for once a full moon overcame it
and London lay bathed in silver. Looking back at the Palace
from St. James's Street, one saw its turrets against the
clear sky as they must have looked at night in the unlit
centuries. A companion pointed up to the turret where King
Charles had spent his last night before his execution. "He
complained," my friend said, "that his feet were cold." I
could understand how he felt; it was still nippy. But the
walk that night was breathtaking; never had I seen London so
unimaginably beautiful. The skeletons of buildings filtered
the sky, the ubiquitous pools shimmered, the grayness of the
London masonry took kindly to this soft light. I realized
that this was the first time I had ever really seen London
by moonlight.
Back in my room the first night, I rang for the floor
waiter. There he was, my old friend James, flourishing a
greatly abbreviated dinner card. He was in tails, as always
(the waiters are the only ones left in London who dress for
dinner), but he had thinned out a bit and his clothes, quite
shiny and threadbare, almost hung on him. Still, he wore
them with an air, and his smile of welcome was the only
thing in London so far that had not changed. There wasn't
much on the menu: a no-man's
land of mousses and pilaffs, with nothing really definable.
I ventured several choices. "I wouldn't have that, sir,"
James cautioned each time. Finally I ordered a chicken
cutlet, which turned out to have a mealy neutrality. It
inexorably filled you up, and that was all that could be
said for it. I diverted my attention from it by talking to
James.
"Well, James," I began, "quite a lot you've gone through in
these five years!"
"Bit rough 'ere and there, sir."
"I'm sure it must have been."
"Worst was in the blitz of '40-'41, when I used to have to
walk 'ome at night to Maida Vale, ducking into areaways
every second, dodging shrapnel."
"Why did you have to walk?"
"Well, sir, during the worst of the blitz the buses would
just draw up at the curb and stay there all night. Had to
walk. Pretty thick it was some nights, coming down so fast.
Why, sir, would you believe it, one night it took me an hour
and a half to walk one hundred yards from this 'otel!"
I was indignant. "Why," I demanded, "wouldn't they let you
sleep here, in the hotel?"
James was shocked. "Oh, sir, I wouldn't sleep in this 'otel."
"Why not, James?"
"Far too 'ot. Don't care for the central 'eating. I'm a
countryman—like open air, open windows!"
Feeling terribly effete for having proposed sleeping in
Claridge's, I finished my dinner quickly and said good night
to James. Then I started to go to bed. While I was
undressing, the sirens began—a long ululation rising in
piercing crescendo. I sat down with a shoe in one hand.
There was a deafening crash. A buzz bomb had fallen, and
seemingly dreadfully dose. I hadn't been so acutely aware,
till that moment, that I was in the South of England. I
looked at the thick, drawn curtains. Flying glass couldn't
very well get through those. Or could it? I put out the
light and quickly got under the covers.
"The next war," said a keen-minded Anglicized Hungarian at a
dinner party a few nights later, "will start with someone
pressing a push button in some underground electric works in
Central Europe, which will send robot bombs to Detroit." It
is generally agreed that London escaped complete destruction
last summer by only a hair's breadth, that had the invasion
not taken place when it did, the enemy installations in
France would have sent across twenty-five hundred robots a
day. This they were equipped to do. Even allowing for the
admitted imprecision of aim, this would have meant the total
extinction of the capital. "The robot is a very clever
weapon," a distinguished physicist in the British Civil
Service told me. "It is, of course, in the early stages of
its development, but it has great possibilities." From a
Mephistophelean point of view, it has done pretty well
already. I arrived after the V-1s had, presumably, done
their worst. They were now sporadic but always impending.
And when they fell, they and the V-2s, they did something
more than show their possibilities. As I was going to dinner
one night in Kensington Palace Gardens, the great park
flared suddenly into brilliant illumination. The trees
became alive with light and dredged from my memory the awful
scene in Arthur Machen's novel "The Terror." For a moment I
thought it was a thunderstorm. The air
shuddered, as well as the car in which I sat. With the
blackness that followed there came the sound of an immense
explosion. Then everything was as before, at least where I
was. Nothing daunts the London chauffeur. Mine had stopped
the car; now he started it again, chuckling to himself. I
didn't ask him what he found funny. I arrived at dinner
fifteen minutes late. "I thought," said my hostess as she
rose to greet me, "that we should have to revise the dinner
table." That was the only reference to the explosion. Next
day the same chauffeur drove me somewhere else. The London
taxi drivers and chauffeurs know everything. Late at night,
in some mysterious rendezvous, they check up on every bomb,
every explosion. This man was able to give me precise
information about last night's bomb. It had killed many
people and destroyed or partially demolished several hundred
houses.
The nonchalance about bombs is general throughout England. A
lady who drives a lorry to blitzed areas told me that she is
never in the least frightened, no matter what happens, while
she is driving, nor does she flinch no matter what gruesome
charges she has to carry. It is only when she is lying in
bed at night that she is frightened, and then more at the
sirens than at the explosions, because, she imagines, the
former are anticipation, the latter faits accomplis.
If you are alive to hear the explosion, you are all right.
On the opening night of John Gielgud's revival of "The
Circle," there was an alert during the last act. The
bedraggled and bedizened Lady Kitty was sitting down front
on a sofa, admonishing the young Elizabeth to profit by her
example and not run away with a married man. The sirens
began. In front of the footlights a square transparency lit
up to reveal the word "ALERT" in huge black letters—quite
unnecessarily, it seemed to me, as the sirens were
distinctly audible. Lady Kitty had been describing the
shabbier social aspects of life in Monte Carlo. I half
expected Yvonne Arnaud, playing Lady Kitty, to say, "My dear
Elizabeth, go to the nearest shelter at once." But Lady
Kitty didn't. She went on fervently imploring Elizabeth to
avoid scandal. No one in the audience stirred, except to
strain forward a bit to hear Yvonne Arnaud better.
William Wyler, the director of the motion picture "Mrs.
Miniver," once told me that he wants to do a scene in a film
of people having lunch or dinner during an alert, with the
conversation proceeding completely undeflected by the
bombing. (He says that he'll shoot the scene without telling
the actors anything about it and add the sound effects
afterward.) In the two months I was in England, I
encountered this sort of thing five times. To get a change
from the inedible food at Claridge's, I used to go out for
the inedible food at several little restaurants I knew. One
day I was lunching in one of these with Chaim Weizmann and a
number of his friends. Everybody was enchanted with the
quietly ironic utterances of this extraordinary man. An
alert began, screaming in crescendo over the very roof of
the restaurant. Weizmann lifted his voice slightly—the only
time I have ever known him to lift it. The conversation went
on to its end without a reference to the alert. Not long
before, a bomb had fallen on a restaurant in this
neighborhood during the lunch hour, killing hundreds of
people, but no one said a word about the incident. I never
discussed an air raid with anyone in London except taxi
drivers and chauffeurs. No one else will talk about them.
Three or four lines in the papers will tell you that several
bombs fell the day before in Southern England, but that is
all. Beyond the casual remark that was made the day I
arrived, the V-2s were never spoken of. Presumably it has
been different since Churchill's speech about them.
This nonchalance has affected Americans, too. There is the
story the Lunts tell. Alfred Lunt was standing in the wings
one night ready to make his entrance in the second act of
"There Shall Be No Night." The sirens sounded, and a bomb
exploded, quite dose. Lynn Fontanne, who was onstage, turned
to address the young man playing her son and found him not
there. He had obeyed a conditioned reflex and run off the
stage to the doubtful shelter of his dressing room.
Disregarding this, Lunt made his entrance. His first line
was to Miss Fontanne: "Darling, are you all right?" The
audience applauded when she said she was all right. "Do you
know," Lunt told me, "what Lynn's first remark to me was
when we left the stage after the curtain was down? She
turned on me accusingly and said, `That's the first time,
Alfred—that's the first time in the years we've been doing
this play—that's the very first time you ever read it
properly!'" I remarked that I had always suspected that the
only really effective director for Lunt was Himmler. This
consoled Miss Fontanne.
The country's absorption in the war is complete, but the
peculiar anomalies of English life and English character,
political and otherwise, persist. The taxi driver who took
me to see Harold Laski knew about him. "Oh, yes, Professor
Laski," he said possessively. "1 am Labour and I think we'll
get in at the next election. Clever man, Professor Laski.
Churchill likes him." Laski was amused by this when I told
him, as well as by another remark I quoted to him, made by
an American when the New York Times carried a story
that the Laski home had been blitzed during the night.
Laski, the Times related, had been knocked out of
bed, had fallen down several flights of stairs, and waked
up. "He must be a light sleeper," said the American.
Then, on a four-hour trip to Cardiff, on a train on which
there was no food, no heat, no seats, I stood in a corridor
talking to a young instructor in the Home Defense. He was
full of gruesome details of the work performed in London by
his Home Defense volunteers, one of them a man well over
seventy. "Unsparing," he said. "They work sometimes for days
with no sleep at all." The most unbearable part of his work,
he said, was finding the bodies of children. Only the week
before, he had pulled out of the wreckage of a bombed
building the body of a little girl about the same age as his
own, who was, he thanked God, evacuated to Gloucester and
whom he was now on his way to visit. "It isn't all
unrelieved gloom, though," he said. "Sometimes funny things
happen." I encouraged him to tell me a funny thing. "Well,"
he said, "one day we were clearing out a badly blitzed
house. We found a decapitated man. We looked and looked for
his head but couldn't find it. Finally we gave up. As we
were carrying the torso through what used
to be the garden into the van, we heard a chicken clucking.
Hello, I thought, what's that chicken clucking about?
There's certainly nothing left for him in the garden. We
went back and followed the clucking till we found the
chicken. It wasn't in the garden at all but in part of the
rubble and it was clucking at the missing head." I was happy
to find that there was a lighter side to this man's work.
At the station in Cardiff I was met by Jack Jones, the
novelist and playwright and the biographer of Lloyd George.
Cardiff, I had been told in London, was hell even in
peacetime. Jones took me to a sing in a local tabernacle. A
banker in the town had organized a series of Sunday-night
sings for service men. The place was packed, the mood warm
and informal, and the singing, in Welsh and English,
magnificent. The phenomenon of a great crowd spending the
evening just singing struck me as extraordinary; in America
it wouldn't occur to people to sing en masse without being
paid for it. Jones walked me back to my hotel afterward. It
was obvious, once we were on the street, that only a few of
the American service men in the vicinity had gone to the
tabernacle. The rest appeared to be walking the streets with
girls, many of them almost children. The atmosphere was
high-pitched, like an American college town on a football
night. In the few blocks between the tabernacle and the
hotel I must have seen twenty pickups. "The girls like the
American approach," said Jones. "Your boys dispense with
preliminaries. Result: high illegitimacy." It was obvious
that the blackout was a help. Long after I went to bed, I
could hear the boys and girls tramping the streets, laughing
and singing. I heard a boy teaching a Welsh girl "I Can't
Give You Anything but Love, Baby." She seemed apt. I was
eavesdropping on the active permutation of cultures; I could
almost feel the graph of illegitimacy soaring. The process
sounded gay.
During a trip to the Valleys, as the mining areas in Wales
are called, Jones and I stopped at Merthyr Tydfil, his
birthplace and the cradle of the Industrial Revolution.
Jones showed me the hut in which he was born. It was one of
a whole block of identical huts. He pointed out, at the
corner, the privy which served the entire block. Fifty yards
from these dwellings is a bronze plaque commemorating the
fact that from here the world's first steam locomotive made
a run of twenty-seven miles. In the middle of the nineteenth
century, Jones told me, Merthyr Tydfil was one of the
busiest industrial cities in the world; the products of the
surrounding valleys went to every part of the globe. All one
can say is that the Industrial Revolution hasn't done well
by
its birthplace—the eroded hills, the rows of boarded-up
buildings, the squalid artifacts left by succeeding
generations make one wonder who got the benefits of all
this. A few London mansions occupied by absentee mine owners
could scarcely compensate for the scars, topographical and
human, on the landscape. These hovels are the shelters of
the Industrial Revolution and they are not much better than
those of the current one; they're aboveground, and that's
about all you can say for them. We went through village
after village with shops boarded up, their districts all
mined out. The inhabitants go by bus to work in war plants
some distance away. What they will do after the war Jones
didn't know. It was through one of these villages that the
Duke of Windsor made a tour when he was King. As the vistas
of misery opened up before him, he muttered, "Something has
to be done about this." For this mutter the people are
grateful to this day. The Duke is popular in the district.
"'E was done in by the 'igher-ups," a taxi driver in Cardiff
said to me. There is a decided impression, even in other
parts of England, that it was not so much Mrs. Simpson as a
program of social improvement, forming slowly in the Duke's
conscience, that cost him his crown.
Having been in London's shelters, I can see readily why most
people—at least those who have some alternative—will take
their chance on being hit rather than go into them. There
are three main types: surface shelters, which look like
enlarged Nissen huts; shallow shelters, which vary in size
and depth and are only fairly safe; and the deep shelters,
of which there are five in London. Each of the last can
accommodate eight thousand people. Then, of course, there
are the subways, which are still favored by many. On the
concrete platforms of the stations are built tiers of steel
shelves somewhat like the ones used in American railway
stations for checking baggage. On them you see men, women,
and small children asleep with their clothes on. As a
concession to light sleepers, the trains do not run after
eleven-thirty at night, but no alarm clock is needed in the
early morning. One morning, while I was waiting in a station
for a train, I saw a little boy rather younger than my own,
who is seven, lying asleep, his arm curved up over his eyes
as if to shield them from the light. The train roared in.
Just as I was caught in the crowd that sucked me aboard,
quite in the New York fashion, I looked back at this child.
The noise of the milling crowd must have penetrated the
planes of sleep; he turned abruptly, huddling himself and
his blanket against the glazed brick wall behind his bunk.
When I asked why people used the subways when they could use
the regular shelters, which at least didn't have trains
rushing through them, I was told that the subways appeal to
many simply because of their safety; several of the regular
shelters—that is, the surface and shallow ones—have been hit
and their occupants killed. What I found most trying in all
the shelters, though for the habitués it is probably a
solace, was the constant blaring, through loudspeakers, of
ancient records of American popular tunes: "Whispering,"
"Avalon," "Blue Skies." These nostalgic idyls, dinned out in
incessant fortissimo, impart an atmosphere of phantasmagoria
to scenes that might otherwise be merely abysmally
depressing. This public music is a wartime phenomenon; the
railway stations, too, have acquired the habit of playing
American, or mainly American, jazz records to speed the
departing trains. The raucous evocation of the melodies of
the seven fat years makes the prevailing dreariness macabre;
the orchestrations of "This Side of Paradise" somehow fail
in their efforts to diminish the electrified gloom of the
urban foxholes.
There are children who have never known any homes but
shelters. A pretty young woman sat in one of them beside her
baby, which was in a pram. I asked her whether she couldn't
be evacuated. She said she had been but hadn't liked the
place where they had sent her. "It was the noise," she said.
"The place was near a bomber command and I couldn't stand
the racket of the bombers making off for France." An
apple-cheeked old lady smiled cheerfully at the young woman
and me. Someone asked her whether she had had dinner. "Yes,"
she said, "I went home and cooked it in my own kitchen."
"But weren't you bombed out?" "Oh, yes," she said. "The rest
of the house is gone, but Jerry didn't get the kitchen."
Obviously she was proud of having put one over on Jerry.
The deep shelters are amazing. They are cities hundreds of
feet underground. A companion and I timed the descent to
one in the lift; it took several minutes. It is planned,
after the war, to use them for stations in a projected
express subway system. The interminable, brightly lit
corridors curving beside the endless shelves of bunks have
the antiseptic horror of the German film "Metropolis." These
shelters are really safe. The one we visited has a long
bar-canteen which serves cocoa, milk and sandwiches at
nominal prices. There is a fully equipped hospital with
nurses and doctors in attendance. We walked miles on
concrete platforms while the loudspeakers blared "Dardanella"
and "Tea for Two." We went to a lower level and visited the
power room, which might serve as a sizzling, violet-lit
shrine to the God Dynamo. The girl in charge manipulated
switches; the immense electric bulb in the heart of an
intestinal coil of lighted glass tubing changed its
complexion from violet to magenta to lemon. We went to the
telephone control. The operator there told us that she could
instantly get in communication with the four other deep
shelters.
We went up again and walked around the corridors. A
good-looking, very neatly dressed man of forty was sitting
on a bunk beside a boy who must have been his son, about
twelve and also nicely dressed. The boy's hair was brushed
smooth and he looked as if he had got himself up to visit a
rich aunt. I talked to the man. He said he had lost every
possession he had in the world except the clothes he and his
son were wearing. They had been living in this shelter for
eight months. In the morning he went to his work and the boy
went to school. The problem in the shelter was to get up
early enough, before six-thirty, because after that hour
lift service, except for the aged and crippled, stopped and
there were seven hundred stairs.
We finally left the deep shelter. My companion wanted me to
see still another type of shelter. I begged off, I simply
couldn't stand one more. I was aware that the people in them
had been standing them for over five years.
"Perhaps," an Englishwoman in A the Civil Service said to me
of the shelter residents, "you would have been less shocked
by what you have seen if you were familiar with the
peacetime homes of these people." This, of course, is a
devastating comment on the civilization which the war is
implacably destroying. The transfer of great populations
underground has been accomplished, but its accomplishment
divides
your feelings when you walk the surface of the city. At the
end of their day's work, the miners in Wales, emerging with
blackened faces, have their cottages to look forward to for
the evening, far though they may be from the idyllic
interiors of the film version of "How Green Was My Valley."
The Londoners submerge.
The Londoners submerge and sit and listen to the
loudspeakers and huddle around the stoves and are patient.
Their patience is rather appalling. Nor are they vindictive.
They are humorous about "the Jerries." I had been told that
the robot raids had changed all that, but I saw nothing to
prove it. They have got used to the robots, too. The people
I saw do not seem to comprehend that human beings have done
this to them. They take it as they might a flood or an
earthquake. The bitterness against the Germans is almost
entirely confined to the articulate classes, and even among
them many think that Vansittart is a crank with a "fixed
idea." Compared to the English, we Americans are a very
violent people indeed.
It is somehow a misstatement to say that the British are
indomitable. It is rather that capitulation is a concept
with which they are not equipped. Perhaps it is precisely
because they depersonalize the enemy that the idea of a
negotiated peace is also foreign to them. After all, you
can't negotiate with a flood or an earthquake. The
conditions of their life are stringent to an extent which we
cannot imagine. For more than five years they have been
underfed, underclothed, moving in a darkness lit only by
bomb flashes and the venomous streaks of robot bombs. An
American congressman from a western state made a hasty trip
to England. He stayed four days. He clamored to go to
France, where he stayed four more. He went back to New York,
bearing the nimbus of one who has stood his ground within
the sound of the guns. Upon his return, he gave a statement
to the press in which he said that the English were well
off, that the shop windows were full of things. One wonders
what would have satisfied this congressman, exactly what
deprivations he would have liked to see. For myself,
I can only say that a case might be made for sending over to
England our civilians instead of our soldiers. The war would
last longer, but so might the peace. |